Cardi Shrug

I like the concept of shrugs, a small bit of knitting around your shoulders, something less than a full-on sweater, that will easily stay in place better than a shawl. But frequently find that shrugs don’t fit me well, and that no-front business sometimes seems to create a frame that emphasizes and draws attention to the bust, which isn’t always complimentary.

So here’s a shrug that’s more like a cardigan, but it’s still meant to be worn open, there’s no buttons. If you like, you could use a nice pin or brooch to close it in the front. The lack of buttons and neck shaping, plus the cropped size, and the one-piece construction, make it a fast and easy knit. I used a larger needle size than typically used for a DK weight, so it’s got a little extra give and drape—because of that, and because it’s not intended to button up, I figured the size to have a bit of negative ease.

Finished Size: medium, approx. 34 inches around at underarm (as this is loosely knit it will naturally stretch, size adjustment instructions are at the end of the pattern)

Yarn: DK/light worsted, approx. 325 yds.—sample knit with two skeins of Lionbrand Microspun, Mocha

Gauge: 18 st per 4 inches in stockinette stitch

Needle Size: larger—6 US / 4mm; smaller—4 US / 3.5mm (or size needed to obtain gauge)

Notes

The shrug is worked in stockinette, except for the hems (the first and last four rows, at the neck and at the bottom edge) and the first and last three stitches of each row, which are all in garter stitch.

Abbreviations

st = stitch
K = knit
P = purl
M = make one—put a backwards loop over the right needle (increase)
PM = place marker
SM = slip marker

Pattern

With larger needles, cast on 88 st.

Knit 4 rows.

Row 1: (right side) Left Front: K23, M1, K1, PM; Left Sleeve: K1, M1, K6, M1, K1, PM; Back: K1, M1, K22, M1, K1, PM; Right Sleeve: K1, M1, K6, M1, K1, PM; Right Front: K1, M1, K23

Row 2: (wrong side) K3, P to last 3 st, K3

Row 3: *K to 1 st before marker, M1, K1, SM, K1, M1; repeat from * to end

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until there are 68 st in back section and 52 st in each sleeve section. From this point the sleeve sections will be worked in garter stitch.

Begin sleeve edging

Row 4: (wrong side) K3, P to marker, K across sleeve section to next marker, P across back section to next marker, K across sleeve section to next marker, P to last 3 st, K3

Row 5: *K to 1 st before marker, M1, K1, SM, K1, M1; repeat from * to end

Repeat rows 4 and 5 once more—72 st in back section and 56 st in each sleeve section.

Next row: K3, P to marker, bind off 56 sleeve st, P across back section, bind off 56 sleeve st, P to last 3 st, K3

Finishing the body

Now work the front left section, back section, and front right section as one piece. Continue in pattern until piece measures 3.5 inches from underarm, ending with a right-side row. Switch to smaller needles and knit 4 rows. Bind off.

Adjusting the size

It’s easy to size it up a little, just remember that the loose knit will stretch naturally. As more increases are worked the raglan seam length will be longer, too. You will also need more yarn.

Multiply desired bust size in inches by 4.5 (the gauge). That gives you the number of stitches you want in your final body size. Divide by 2–that’s the number of stitches you want to end up with in the back section (which is half of the body).

But wait, there’s more. The sleeve edging part is going to add 4 more stitches to the back section (because it includes 2 more increase rounds). So take that number from above, of the total back section stitches you need, and subtract 4.

Now just continue working the raglan increases (the pattern up until before the sleeve edging) until that number is reached. Then follow directions for the sleeve edging, making adjustments for the different number of stitches you will have in the sleeve sections.

New instructions for a 48-inch bust (untested)

Note: These are estimated instructions that I have not test-knit. If you try them, I’d love to hear back about how well they worked out for you.

neck – 22 inches
chest – 48 inches

4.5 st per inch

Pattern

With larger needles, cast on 142 st.

Knit 4 rows.

Row 1: (right side) Left Front: K37, M1, K1, PM; Left Sleeve: K1, M1, K12, M1, K1, PM; Back: K1, M1, K36, M1, K1, PM; Right Sleeve: K1, M1, K12, M1, K1, PM; Right Front: K1, M1, K37

Row 2: (wrong side) K3, P to last 3 st, K3

Row 3: *K to 1 st before marker, M1, K1, SM, K1, M1; repeat from * to end
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until there are 104 st in back section and 80 st in each sleeve section. From this point the sleeve sections will be worked in garter stitch.

Begin sleeve edging

Row 4: (wrong side) K3, P to marker, K across sleeve section to next marker, P across back section to next marker, K across sleeve section to next marker, P to last 3 st, K3

Row 5: *K to 1 st before marker, M1, K1, SM, K1, M1; repeat from * to end

Repeat rows 4 and 5 once more—108 st in back section and 84 st in each sleeve section.

Next row: K3, P to marker, bind off 84 sleeve st, P across back section, bind off 84 sleeve st, P to last 3 st, K3

Finishing the body

Now work the front left section, back section, and front right section as one piece. Continue in pattern until piece measures 3.5 inches from underarm, ending with a right-side row. Switch to smaller needles and knit 4 rows. Bind off.