Capless told me she wanted a crescent-shaped wrap knit side-to-side, with a lace edging knit on at the same time. She described it so well I immediately started getting dangerous ideas. I’ve been wanting to try this ocean waves lace edging, which, naturally, wants to be knit in a lovely shade of blue.
Now I’ve knit a side-to-side scarf before, and one thing I learned is that stockinette in a pattern like this will tend to curl, even after blocking. If you want something really drapy and flowy, this isn’t the right pattern. On the plus side, it’s got an easy lace edging—only the right-side rows are pattern rows—and the rest is easy ol’ stockinette.
I’m not sure the cotton yarn I chose was the best yarn ever, wool would probably block better, but I really loved the color, and it is extremely soft.
Finished Measurements: 25 inches wide by 68 inches long
Yarn: worsted weight (a natural fiber yarn, not acrylic), approximately 710 yds—sample knit with four skeins of I Love This Cotton!, Aqua
Gauge: 17 st per 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Needle Size: 8 US / 5mm
Notes
THIS IS AN ADVANCED PATTERN. The instructions assume experience with reading pattern directions in general and lace patterns in particular. Seriously. A few simple scarves will not give you the experience you need for this one.
Stockinette stitch curls, the long edge of the shawl will tend to want to roll.
Because of that, and the lace edging, a natural fiber yarn (which can be blocked) is recommended.
Abbreviations
st = stitch
K = knit
P = purl
YO = yarn over (increase)
kfb = knit in front and back of stitch (increase)
k2tog = knit two stitches together (decrease)
ssk = slip two stitches knitwise (one at a time), insert left needle into the front of both stitches, knit them together (decrease)
dbl dec = slip two stitches together knitwise, knit one stitch, pass slipped stitch over (double decrease)
PM = place marker
Lace Edging (this is only the edging by itself, start with the Pattern instructions below)
Row 1: K4, YO, K5, YO, k2tog, YO K2
Row 2: K2, p11, k2
Row 3: K5, dbl dec, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 4: K2, P9, K2
Row 5: K4, ssk, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 6: K2, P8, K2
Row 7: K3, ssk, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 8: K2, P7, K2
Row 9: K2, ssk, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 10: K2, P6, K2
Row 11: K1, ssk, K2, YO, K1, YO, k2tog, YO, K2
Row 12: K2, P7, K2
Row 13: K4, YO, K3, YO, k2tog, YO, K2
Row 14: K2, P9, K2
Pattern
cast on 14 st.
Set up rows:
Row 1: Kfb, k to end
Row 2: K13, kfb, k1
Increase section
Row 1: K2, kfb, PM; [row 1 of chart] K4, YO, K5, YO, k2tog, YO K2
Row 2: K2, P11, K2, P1, K3
Row 3: K3, kfb; [row 3 of chart] K5, dbl dec, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 4: K2, P9, K2, P2, K3
Row 5: K2, k2tog, YO, kfb; [row 5 of chart] K4, ssk, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 6: K2, P8, K2, P3, K3
Row 7: K2, k2tog, YO, K1, kfb; [row 7 of chart] K3, ssk, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 8: K2, P7, K2, P4, K3
Row 9: K2, k2tog, YO, K2, kfb; [row 9 of chart] K2, ssk, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 10: K2, P6, K2, P5, K3
Row 11: K2, k2tog, YO, K3, kfb; [row 11 of chart] K1, ssk, K2, YO, K1, YO, k2tog, YO, K2
Row 12: K2, P7, K2, P6, K3
Row 13: K2, k2tog, YO, K4, kfb; [row 13 of chart] K4, YO, K3, YO, k2tog, YO, K2
Row 14: K2, P9, K2, P7, K3
Continue to work a kfb increase before the marker on every right-side row until 10 lace edge repeats are completed—73 st in body (not including lace edging st).
Then work a kfb increase before the marker every second right-side row over next two lace edge repeats—80 st in body.
Straight section
Work 6 more lace edge repeats even (not increasing in body section).
Decrease section
On next right-side row, work in pattern to 2 st before marker, ssk, work row 1 of lace edging.
Continue to work a ssk decrease before the marker every second right-side row for 2 repeats—73 st in body.
Then work a ssk decrease before the marker every right-side row until 5 body st remain.
K3, ssk, row 11 of chart
row 12 of chart, p1, k3
k2, ssk, row 13 of chart
row 14 of chart, k2tog, k1
ssk, k13
Bind off
Block it within an inch of its life, steam blocking (assuming that’s okay for whatever yarn you’re using) is best.
Jolanda says
Wow, I want to make this wrap! It looks great. I already know what wool to use.
Jen says
Thanks! I’ve thought about trying it again in wool instead of cotton. I should probably get some more new patterns done, though. 🙂
Shirley E. says
Why not acrylic yarn? This is so beautiful.
Jen says
It just doesn’t block like a natural fiber does, so it generally isn’t as well suited for lace. If you aren’t sure, you could try a swatch and see what happens.
Helen Barragan says
Hi I have a question. When you start the pattern on Row 2 k13, kfb, k1. Does this mean to kfb on one stitch or kfb on the k13sts. could you please clarify this for me. I have done some lace knitting but need some direction on certain instructions.
Jen says
k13, kfb, k1: knit 13 stitches, knit in the front and back of next stitch (increasing by one), knit 1 stitch.
The bad news is, that’s not the lace part yet, that’s only the second set-up row. It gets a lot harder from there.
Mariette says
Thankn you so much. I hope than I will be able to do that soon but I have some slippers to do before doing this one. Have a nice day.