Coming up with projects to knit while traveling can be a bit of a challenge for me, they need to be engaging enough to be interesting, but not so difficult that I need to constantly refer to patterns or charts. I had recently done another project with a cable braid, and it seemed to fit the criteria pretty well, but this time I decided to try working a seamless cable band by doing a provisional cast-on, and an advanced grafting technique I found recently. Once the cable band was finished, the body of the bag is simply stitches picked up from the edge of the band and worked in-the-round. The only tricky part was the grafting, since I’d never grafted anything but plain stockinette before, but I found it to be quite easy once I figured it out. The bag turned out really cute, and I mastered a new technique, score!
Finished Measurements
11 inches (at widest point) by 7.5 inches tall (not including handles)
Yarn
worsted weight, approximately 130 yds—sample knit with one skein of Wool-Ease Oxford Grey
Gauge
18 st per 4 inches
Needle Size
8 US / 5mm
Notes
This pattern uses a provisional cast-on, and an advanced grafting technique (some experience with grafting (kitchener stitch) is recommended).
The cable band forms the top of the bag, then the body of the bag is picked up along the bottom edge of the cable band and worked in-the-round down from there.
Abbreviations
st = stitch
K = knit
P = purl
C12F = slip next 6 st to cable needle and hold to front of work, K next 6 st from left-hand needle, K 6 st from cable needle
C12B = slip next 6 st to cable needle and hold to back of work, K next 6 st from left-hand needle, K 6 st from cable needle
Pattern
Cable band
Using provisional cast on, cast on 29 st.
Row 1: K4, P3, K18, P4
Row 2: K4, P18, K3, P4
Row 3: K4, P3, K6, C12F, P4
Row 4: K4, P18, K3, P4
Rows 5—10: repeat rows 1 and 2
Row 11: K4, P3, C12B, K6, P4
Row 12: K4, P18, K3, P4
Rows 13—16: repeat rows 1 and 2
Work these 16 rows 7 times (7 pattern repeats total), then work one more repeat ending with row 13.
Joining the band seamlessly
Grafting (kitchener stitch) is most commonly done on stockinette. For grafting the reverse stockinette sections, there is a slight difference, but it’s not very difficult.
Thread a length of yarn on to a tapestry needle. Hold the needles so that the cast-on stitches are on the back needle and the ending edge of stitches are on the front needle (the right sides of the cable should be facing out, make sure the cable band is not twisted). The “i-cord” side of the band will be to the right side, and will be the starting point for grafting.
Set up as usual: go through the first stitch on the front needle purlwise, then go through first stitch on the back needle knitwise. Go through first st/front needle knitwise and slip off the needle, then second st/front needle purlwise; go through first st/back needle purlwise and slip off needle, then second st/back needle knitwise.
Basic kitchener stitch sum-up: Front needle: knit, slip, purl. Back needle: purl, slip, knit
Reverse stockinette section: keep working the front needle the same as for stockinette grafting, but on the back needle work in the opposite direction for the purl stitches. So on the back needle, work the last knit stitch purlwise, slip off the needle, then go through the first purl stitch purlwise instead of knitwise. Work the front needle the same as usual—knit, slip, purl—then work the back needle knit, slip, purl.
As soon as you reach the cable section, you’ll start working the back needle in the usual grafting method again (front needle: knit, slip, purl; back needle: purl, slip, knit). Then, again, when you get to the last section of purl stitches, work just as you did for the previous purl stitches.
So, you always work the front needle the same. On the back needle, you go through the purl stitches the opposite direction than you’d do if they were knit stitches. It sounds more complicated than it is.
(If you need further help, please contact me and I’ll be happy to assist.)
Bag body
Beginning at the end of the join, pick up 102 st (approximately 4 out of every 5 stitches) around the bottom edge of the cable band. Place marker, join and work stockinette stitch for about 5 inches. Bind off with three-needle bind off (or bind off and sew edge closed).
Turn bag inside out. Sew diagonally across bottom corners. Weave in all ends, turn right side out.
Lining is recommended to add stability. You may use any kind of handle you like; solid wooden handles will hold the shape of the bag as they will not allow the fabric to pull in when the bag is being carried.
What a beautiful bag. I definitely need to make this. Thank you for the pattern.
Thanks, Michelle! I’m glad you like it. 🙂
I cannot understand how you set up the cable band to join it. I can’t figure out how you get the cast on edge in the back with the right sides facing out.
I also don’t know which edge you are calling the I-cord. Is this the stockinette edge or the purl (reverse stockingette) side?
After the cable band is knit, you put the stitches from the provisional cast-on edge back on a needle. Then you’re going to use kitchener stitch to join the stitches from the cast-on edge to the stitches on the ending edge.
When you’re looking at the right side of the cable, the “i-cord” stitches are on the right edge. They’ll just curl around like i-cord does.
Thanks! I love this pattern.
Do you use round needles to knit the body of this bag? I am done with the cable part. Is there a way to use straight needles to do the body? Thanks!
It’s intended that you use circular needles so it will be seamless. If you don’t mind a seam down one side, you could use straights instead.
Do you think this will work with Tshirt yarn? I notice the pattern doesn’t include instructions on how to attach the handles. Is this something your can give me guidance on?
T-shirt yarn should work, though the gauge will be a lot bigger, so you’ll need to make some adjustments for that (like any instructions given in inches). I haven’t worked with a t-shirt yarn, but I’d guess there might be extra stretch to it, so you’ll probably want to line the bag.
How you attach the handles depends on what kind of handles you’re using. I used strips of the same fabric that I lined the bag with. You could also try using the same yarn you knit with, or contrasting yarn or fabric. If you need ideas, you can look on Ravelry to see what other people did, or just do some google searches for knitted bag handles.
Finished the cable section and now ready to do theverything kitchener stitch. Have a few questions about prepping for it.
When do I remove the provisional cast on?
Which stitches of the cast on row do I pick up for the back needle?
You’re going to pick up the provisional cast on stitches for the back needle. That way you can graft that together with the other end and make the band seamless.
I think a number of people have just done a regular cast on and sewed it together, which is a whole lot easier and the seam isn’t going to ruin the bag or anything. I liked the challenge of making it seamless myself. 🙂