Capless told me she wanted a crescent-shaped wrap knit side-to-side, with a lace edging knit on at the same time. She described it so well I immediately started getting dangerous ideas. I’ve been wanting to try this ocean waves lace edging, which, naturally, wants to be knit in a lovely shade of blue.
Now I’ve knit a side-to-side scarf before, and one thing I learned is that stockinette in a pattern like this will tend to curl, even after blocking. If you want something really drapy and flowy, this isn’t the right pattern. On the plus side, it’s got an easy lace edging—only the right-side rows are pattern rows—and the rest is easy ol’ stockinette.
I’m not sure the cotton yarn I chose was the best yarn ever, wool would probably block better, but I really loved the color, and it is extremely soft.
Finished Measurements: 25 inches wide by 68 inches long
Yarn: worsted weight (a natural fiber yarn, not acrylic), approximately 710 yds—sample knit with four skeins of I Love This Cotton!, Aqua
Gauge: 17 st per 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Needle Size: 8 US / 5mm
THIS IS AN ADVANCED PATTERN. The instructions assume experience with reading pattern directions in general and lace patterns in particular. Seriously. A few simple scarves will not give you the experience you need for this one.
Stockinette stitch curls, the long edge of the shawl will tend to want to roll.
Because of that, and the lace edging, a natural fiber yarn (which can be blocked) is recommended.
st = stitch
K = knit
P = purl
YO = yarn over (increase)
kfb = knit in front and back of stitch (increase)
k2tog = knit two stitches together (decrease)
ssk = slip two stitches knitwise (one at a time), insert left needle into the front of both stitches, knit them together (decrease)
dbl dec = slip two stitches together knitwise, knit one stitch, pass slipped stitch over (double decrease)
PM = place marker
Lace Edging (this is only the edging by itself, start with the Pattern instructions below)
Row 1: K4, YO, K5, YO, k2tog, YO K2
Row 2: K2, p11, k2
Row 3: K5, dbl dec, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 4: K2, P9, K2
Row 5: K4, ssk, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 6: K2, P8, K2
Row 7: K3, ssk, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 8: K2, P7, K2
Row 9: K2, ssk, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 10: K2, P6, K2
Row 11: K1, ssk, K2, YO, K1, YO, k2tog, YO, K2
Row 12: K2, P7, K2
Row 13: K4, YO, K3, YO, k2tog, YO, K2
Row 14: K2, P9, K2
cast on 14 st.
Set up rows:
Row 1: Kfb, k to end
Row 2: K13, kfb, k1
Row 1: K2, kfb, PM; [row 1 of chart] K4, YO, K5, YO, k2tog, YO K2
Row 2: K2, P11, K2, P1, K3
Row 3: K3, kfb; [row 3 of chart] K5, dbl dec, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 4: K2, P9, K2, P2, K3
Row 5: K2, k2tog, YO, kfb; [row 5 of chart] K4, ssk, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 6: K2, P8, K2, P3, K3
Row 7: K2, k2tog, YO, K1, kfb; [row 7 of chart] K3, ssk, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 8: K2, P7, K2, P4, K3
Row 9: K2, k2tog, YO, K2, kfb; [row 9 of chart] K2, ssk, K2, YO, k2tog, YO, k2tog, K1
Row 10: K2, P6, K2, P5, K3
Row 11: K2, k2tog, YO, K3, kfb; [row 11 of chart] K1, ssk, K2, YO, K1, YO, k2tog, YO, K2
Row 12: K2, P7, K2, P6, K3
Row 13: K2, k2tog, YO, K4, kfb; [row 13 of chart] K4, YO, K3, YO, k2tog, YO, K2
Row 14: K2, P9, K2, P7, K3
Continue to work a kfb increase before the marker on every right-side row until 10 lace edge repeats are completed—73 st in body (not including lace edging st).
Then work a kfb increase before the marker every second right-side row over next two lace edge repeats—80 st in body.
Work 6 more lace edge repeats even (not increasing in body section).
On next right-side row, work in pattern to 2 st before marker, ssk, work row 1 of lace edging.
Continue to work a ssk decrease before the marker every second right-side row for 2 repeats—73 st in body.
Then work a ssk decrease before the marker every right-side row until 5 body st remain.
K3, ssk, row 11 of chart
row 12 of chart, p1, k3
k2, ssk, row 13 of chart
row 14 of chart, k2tog, k1
Block it within an inch of its life, steam blocking (assuming that’s okay for whatever yarn you’re using) is best.